FRANCE

France is a large country, with coastlines on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.  Its southern land border is Spain; to the north are Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany; to the east are Switzerland and Italy.  French is the official language.  Most people are Roman Catholic (80%); other religions include Muslim (7%), Protestant (2%), and Jewish (1%).  We visited Strasbourg and Riquewihr.

STRASBOURG

Halfway between Paris and Prague, Strasbourg is the capital of Alsace and is also known as the crossroads of Europe.  Its famous cathedral has catered to both Catholic and Protestant congregations, and it has been designated one of the capitals of the European Union.  Because of its many important historic buildings, Strasbourg’s city center (an island surrounded by two arms of the River Ile) has been named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The cathedral, four ancient churches, and the (former) residence of the prince-bishops form a district with all the characteristics of a medieval town.

We got a good look at the Old Town on a boat trip around the island.  The bateau picked us up where our ship was docked and took us into town, around the island and through some of the city’s canals. 

A superb example of Gothic architecture, the Cathedral de Notre Dame (Cathedral of Our Lady) dominates old Strasbourg.  Its single steeple soars 500 feet above the square – the photographer has to walk nearly a block away to find the top of the church in the camera viewfinder. 

Built between 1176 and 1439, it stands in a cobblestone square on the site of an earlier basilica.  The carvings on the outside are fascinating – since few could read in medieval times, churches used art to illustrate the lessons of the bible – it appears that the entire book is documented here (though we haven’t found a specific reference for the gargoyles).

 

Stepping inside the cathedral takes your breath away – and we thought by how we couldn’t be impressed by yet another cathedral.   It’s loaded with artwork, beautiful windows, and the most spectacular organ pipes ever seen!

 

Perhaps the cathedral’s loveliest sculpture is Pilier des Anges (Pillar of the Angels), a carved pillar entwined with the four evangelists and trumpeting angels, all heralding the Last Judgment.  It was created in 1230 A.D. 

Just behind the pillar, is one of the most amazing things we saw along this trip – a massive astronomical clock.  Constructed in the 1540’s, it is a huge timepiece with a planetary dial.  Its automated figures perform daily at 12:30 – the Apostles march before Christ, a cock crows and beats its wings, and the seven ages of man go on parade – is there another clock that’s been ticking for nearly 500 years?

The cathedral is located in Place de la Cathedrale, or Cathedral Square.  The dark brown building on the corner is the Kammerzell House, built in the 15^th century.  With its cobblestones and timber-framed houses, Strasbourg is distinctly medieval – except perhaps for the modern-day postman making his rounds.    

 

The Palais Rohan (Rohan Palace) is near the cathedral.  Designed by the king’s architect in 1730, this grand classical palace was intended for the Prince-Bishops of Strasbourg.  Today it houses three museums – archeology, fine arts and decorative arts.

The Ancienne Douane (Old Custom House), the oldest part of which dates from 1358, is now occupied by the Museum of Modern Art.  It’s a grand old building, sitting right on the river.

Another grand old building on the river turned out to be a former monastery, later used as a prison, and today housing the Ecole Nationale d’Administration (National School of Administration) - a graduate school established by Charles de Gaulle to train senior government officials.  A lot of history in one place!

After our morning boat ride, cathedral visit, and quick tour of the city, we rode the tram back to the ship for lunch.  Some folks stayed on or around the ship for a relaxing afternoon, but some of us adventuresome souls took the tram back to town for more exploring.

Our first target was the Ponts-Couverts (covered bridges) that depict one of the postcard images of the city of Strasbourg.  There are three bridges, linked by three medieval watchtowers, all that remain of 90 towers that once were part of these ancient ramparts. The bridges themselves were once capped by a wooden roof; despite the disappearance of this cover back in the 18th century, the locals still call them covered bridges.  

Next we headed into the west end of the town’s historic center, a picturesque area on the banks of the Ill River – known as Petite France.  Its cobbled streets are line with medieval and Renaissance timbered houses, dripping with colorful geraniums and shaded by ancient trees.  This was once the home of fisherman, tanners, and millers. 

 

 







 The Maison des Tanneurs (House of the Tanners) is one of the beautiful half-timbered houses, dating from the 16^th-17^th century, built on the water’s edge. It was the former headquarters of the city’s Tanners Guild and today houses a restaurant. 

 

We spent the afternoon wandering the Petite France, neighborhood, not knowing the names of anything, following interesting streets and alleys and canals – just enjoying being there.  Here are some photos of the places that we’d like to see again someday …

 

 

Our first night in Strausbourg, we enjoyed some local talent after dinner.  Two singers, Anita and Lydia, came on board and entertained us with favorite French songs and ballads.  Very talented ladies.

RIQUEWIHR & ALSACE ROUTE DU VIN

Situated between the Rhine River and the Vosges Mountains, the Alsace region is known for its excellent wine, idyllic villages and a few castles on the hills. We spent our second day in France on the Alsace Route du Vin (or Wine Route), a truly picturesque drive. 

 


As we made our way through historic towns with cobbled streets, medieval timber-framed houses and Renaissance fountains, villages seem to compete for who can boast the most colorful flowers.

 

We made a couple of stops along the way.  First stop was in Hunawihr at the Centre de Reintroduction des Cigognes, a wildlife program dedicated to protecting the White Stork.  Storks have been a part of the Alsatian scenery for many centuries; they are known as a symbol of happiness and faithfulness.  Once very numerous, they would return every year from Africa to announce the coming of spring.  Over the years, their numbers declined drastically and this Center is an effort to help the storks return and establish their nests in the Alsatian trees and chimney stacks.

This goal was well accomplished as they now have returned more numerous than ever. Since the inception of stork parks (such as this Center), some never leave, even during the winter months.  We enjoyed a short visit here to see the storks, learn about the Center’s work, and walk around the 8-acre park.

 

The other stop on our morning adventure was Riquewihr, a pretty little town with vineyards running right up to the ramparts surrounding it.  It is a real showcase of medieval and Renaissance houses, said to be the prettiest town on the wine route.  It abounds in cobbled alleys, geranium-clad balconies, romantic double ramparts, watchtowers … even the post office is charming!

 

 

We entered through the main gate, which passes through the Hotel de Ville, or town hall.  From there, the rue du General de Gaulle climbs a hill past medieval and Renaissance houses, half-timbered, stone-clad or corbelled. There are oriel windows, sculpted portals and medieval sign boards.  

 

 

Eventually, we reach the far side of town and get a look at the Dolder, a 13^th century bell tower.   From inside the town, it’s beautifully decorated; from outside, it’s stern and forbidding – a look through the gate invites a stroll …

 

Past the Dolder is a second tier of ramparts, with yet another gate – it looks like this one had a drawbridge attached, but today the path leads up into the vineyards that are stacked on up the hillside. 

Having seen enough tourists for one day, we headed off onto the back streets and alleys to get a different point of view.  Happy to report that there are some peaceful areas to be found - if there’s ever an ‘off-season’ around here, this would be a nice place to visit again.

 

 

After seeing some of the countryside, we re-boarded the ship and set sail one last time.  This was the night of the Captain’s Farewell Dinner in the restaurant.   This required extra study of the menu and the wine list, but everybody cheered for Baked Alaska!

 

After dinner, it was time for much silliness in the lounge – The One and Only MS River Rhapsody Crew Show.  Shortages in the talent department were compensated for with lots of enthusiasm.