BELGIUM

Belgium is located on the western edge of continental Europe, with about 40 miles of seacoast on the North Sea.  It sits between France to the south and the Netherlands to the north.  The main languages spoken here are Flemish (57%) and French (32%); the main religious group is Roman Catholic (75%).  We visited Bruges, Damme, Ghent, and Antwerp.

BRUGES

The historic center of Bruges has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is such an outstanding example of a medieval settlement that has maintained its historic fabric as it has evolved over the centuries.  Here the original Gothic structures are part of the town’s identity – the town hasn’t been restored, it’s been preserved. 

We had 2.5 days to explore the city and its houses of time-worn brick, majestic public buildings, and canals, before embarking on the river cruise.  We had a guided walking tour, a boat tour, and plenty of time for wandering around.

Grote Markt is the vast Market Square at the heart of Bruges.  Today it is ringed by banks, shops and restaurants, as well as great old gabled buildings.  Most of these colorful buildings were guild houses – headquarters of a particular group of craftsmen, such as tanners or butchers.  Today they house restaurants local foods, such as mussels and fries.

In the center of the market square is a statue of two Belgian heroes, butcher Jan Breydel and weaver Pieter de Coninck.  These two led a 1302 uprising against wealthy merchants and nobles who dominated the guilds. 

The Government Palace is a large Neo-Gothic building that dates from the 1800s.  Today it houses the administrative offices of West Flanders. The red brick building next door is the main post office.

The marketplace is dominated by the Belfry (or Belfort), a 13th-century octagonal tower which holds a 47-bell carillon that rings out over the city every quarter hour and in longer concerts several times a day in summer months. The Belfry stands atop the Halles (the Halls) a complex of buildings in which most of the city's commerce was conducted in centuries past.  This structure was an expression of the power of the guilds.

The Burg is another public square a few steps away from the marketplace.   Here Baldwin of the Iron Arm once built a fortified castle, around which a village (or 'burg') developed. The original entrance into the Burg was through an opening in the town hall.  Note the bicycles – they were a hazard everywhere!

The Town Hall is a beautiful Gothic structure built in the late 1300s, making it the oldest town hall in Belgium.  The statues on the façade are the Counts of Flanders and Burgundy. Upstairs is the 'Gothic Room,' full of old town maps and paintings and beautifully restored to its 1400 grandeur. 

Also on the Burg is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, a 12th-century church tucked in the corner of the square next to the Town Hall. It is decorated with gold statues of people important in the early history of Bruges.  Since 1149, this building has been a repository of a fragment of cloth soaked with the blood of Christ, which was brought to Bruges during the Second Crusade.

 

The co-location of the Town Hall and the Church is not accidental.  The Catholic Church is the official state church of Belgium.  The Government funds the Church (Bishops are civil servants!) and the Church in turn, provides most of the schools in the country.  Other religions are ‘recognized’ but not funded.

Next to the Basilica are buildings housing shops and restaurants.  Note the Belfry looming overhead – this square is very near the main market square.  Also, the Belfry is visible from all over town – a good thing, since narrow winding unnamed streets make it very easy to get lost. 

The Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady) took two centuries (the 13th to the 15th) to build; today it stands as a memorial to the power and wealth of Bruges in its heyday.  Its soaring 400-foot-high spire dominates the city skyline; it is the 2^nd tallest brick tower in the world.  Among its many art treasures are the marble Madonna and Child by Michelangelo. 

 

Next to the church is the Gruuthuse (or Gruut House), formerly the palace of the family who had the monopoly on Gruut, the herbal mixture that was used in medieval beer prior to the conversion to hops-based beer from recipes brought from Germany in the 15^th century. 

The Memling Museum is housed in the old Hospital of St. John, which dates from the Middle Ages.  Here one can view typical medieval hospital buildings filled with furniture and other objects illustrating their history.  The museum also houses paintings by the artist Hans Memling. 

There’s so much history in Bruges, it’s hard to take it all in.  Every street in the city center is lined with old, old houses, many with the dates shown on the front façade.  Also visible are the ends of the iron tie-bars used to stabilize the brick structure; these tall skinny walls were only one brick in thickness.

 

Crossing the bridge over a canal, we went to visit the Begijnhof, one of the most tranquil spots in Bruges.  The Beguines were religious women, similar to nuns, who accepted vows of chastity and obedience, but drew the line at poverty.  In the 13^th century they founded the begijnofs, enclosed communities designed to meet their spiritual and material needs.  The community included houses, churches, ancillary buildings and green space.  Today this Begijnhof is occupied by Benedictine nuns who try to keep the old traditions alive.  Little whitewashed houses surrounding a lawn with beautiful shade trees. 

 

Bruges' last remaining city brewery is De Halve Maan (The Half Moon), established in 1546.  It is a working family brewery that offers an informative and entertaining look at Belgian beer-making.   According to our guide:  "The components of beer are vitally necessary and contribute to a well-balanced life pattern.  Nerves, muscles, vision, and healthy skin are positively stimulated by drinking beer”.  Their specialty beer is called Brugse Zot, which refers to the nickname of the townspeople, conferred upon them by Maximilian of Austria.  Of course we had to check it – nice beer and a great way to wrap up a long day of walking. 

Because of its many canals, Bruges is often called ‘The Venice of the North.’  Bruges lies inland, but it was once a major harbor because of the many sea-arms created by frequent flooding by the North Sea.  In the Middle-Ages, these waterways had to be regularly adapted and enlarged to allow large trade ships to reach the city.  As the sea retreated, Antwerp became the major harbor and Bruges was left with a vast network of rivers and canals no longer suitable for large trade ships.  This canal behind our hotel is quiet in early morning.

Today the Bruges’ canals offer a wonderful way to see the city.  It’s a very different perspective, but even from the water, the Belfry is easy to spot.

 

The boat took us into some other parts of town, near the old harbor and past one of the few wooden houses still standing.

Here are some scenes from our canal boat ride, including a shot of the most photographed dog in Bruges (he was snoozing in an open window on the canal side of the house).

 

 

There are other ways to get around town.  Many visitors favor the horse-drawn buggy ride, while the locals (including this charming postman) go everywhere on bicycles. 

 

Lest you think we spent all our energies on historical sight-seeing, now would be a good time to point out that Bruges offers many different experiences – and we had all sorts of advice about what to try.

First there’s lace, an item for which Bruges is famous the world over.  Lace-making is an art that is passed from one generation to the next, and thus, an art in danger of disappearing.  There are lace shops all over town, and our guide took us to one to get a firsthand look at lace artisans and their work. 

 

Then there’s Belgian chocolate, another item said to be better in Bruges than anywhere else. When it comes to chocolates, there are ordinary candy bars, the more exotic Godiva or Ghirardelli-style chocolates found in specialty stores, and then there is Belgian chocolate. Belgian chocolate is considered to be the gourmet standard to which all other chocolate is compared.  What makes Belgian chocolate unique is the quality of ingredients and an almost fanatical adherence to Old World manufacturing techniques. Even in today's world of automation and mass production, most Belgian chocolate is still made by hand in small shops using original equipment. In our experience, these small chocolate outlets are fine places to visit – to look, to taste, to buy, and to savor. 

 

Another local delicacy is the Belgian waffle, which is commonly sold by sidewalk vendors as a snack or in restaurants as a dessert.  The Belgian waffle is characterized by the dough, which uses yeast, eggs, and melted butter.  The finished product is usually served dusted with confectioner’s sugar or topped with chocolate, fruit, or whipped cream.  Delicious.

And don’t forget the Belgian fries, or frites.  The Belgians claim that this dish was created in Belgium.  They say that the term "French fries" was introduced when American soldiers arrived in Belgium during World War I, and tasted Belgian fries. They supposedly called them "French," as it was the official language of the Belgian Army at that time.  In Belgium, fries are sold in shops called friteries.  They are served with a variety of sauces and eaten either on their own or with other foods. Traditionally, they are served in a white cardboard cone, and then wrapped in paper, with a good spoonful of sauce on the top. 

Last but not least, there’s Belgian beer.  In Belgium, beer is more than just a frothy beverage - it’s a culture. With at least 500 different varieties, many Belgian beers have personalized beer glasses in which only that beer may be served. Belgians take their beer seriously – they say the shape of each glass enhances the flavor of the beer for which it is designed. In a serious effort to see if Belgium deserves its reputation for specialty beers, we tried a few:  wheat, blonde, cherry-flavored, dark, light, strong, even beer made by Trappist monks.  Hard to pick a favorite – more research needed on this topic.

 

DAMME

The Village of Damme sits on the Zwin River about 4 miles from Bruges.  It once was a thriving town, serving as the customs office and outer port of Bruges.  Its heyday lasted about 200 years – until the river silted up and the party was over.  Nothing much has changed since then, and today Damme promises a glimpse of a medieval Flemish town.

There’s a canal between Bruges and Damme, with walking/biking paths on either side.  So … what better way to see the countryside than on a bicycle?  Fran, Jo and Carol rented bikes from a shop near the Belfry, checked the map, and somehow managed to get out of town without getting run over or (worse) running over somebody else. 

First stop was the old Cross City Gate (Kruispoort) of Bruges.  There has been a gate at this location since the year 1297; the present version is dated from the beginning of the 15^th century.   It leads to a bridge which crosses the ‘big moat’ canal that surrounds the old city center. 

The path along the canal around Bruges was a lovely ride.  The path is on top of the old ramparts, so there’s a nice view into town – at a safe distance from cars, pedestrians, and other road hazards.  Along this route there are four windmills - what a great place for riding a bike.

 

Once we reached the turn-off to Damme, we crossed the big moat and pedaled along the smaller Bruges-Damme canal.  One last look back at the city, and then the view was a bit different – a flat and straight line through the countryside.

As we neared the town of Damme, we came upon the Schellemill across the canal.  It was erected in 1267, the same year in which Damme was founded.  Half of the mill’s revenues had to be paid to the Count of Flanders, who originally owned the land on which the mill stands.

The central point of Damme is the Grote Markt, which is dominated by the Town Hall (or Stadhuis).   This Gothic-style building was erected in 1468, on the site of the original town hall built in 1242.  It has statues of Flemish counts and countesses decorating its facade. 

Nearby is St. John’s Hospital, founded in 1249.  The hospital has been a home for the elderly since the 19th century.  Part of it serves as a museum.

The Church of Our Lady stands at the far end of Damme’s main street.  Construction of this church began in 1225 and today its tower reigns over the town and surrounding countryside.

 

Beyond the church, there’s yet another canal (surprise!), with an inviting path alongside.  Ah, if we only had more time…

Midday arrived and we were hungry from all our riding and walking around town.  Restaurant prices were quite high, but we found a cozy little pub with good food and reasonable prices.  Would you believe that beer was cheaper than bottled water?

Time to head back to Bruges – we gathered our bikes and decided to ride home on the ‘other’ side of the canal.  Here Jo and Carol are crossing the bridge, which provided a great view of our return route – you can see all the way down the canal, with the Bruges Cathedral steeple standing tall at the end. 

 

Somehow the return trip seemed longer (and all uphill), and the scenery was a little different on this side.  Here we were riding just below the canal, with more shade trees and with nice views of the farmlands created from flooded lowlands and maintained by dikes and windmills.  We also got a look at some Belgian draft horses – nothing dainty about this fellow.

 

While we were off pedaling, Margaret, Dennis and Vicky went on an excursion to see more of the Flanders countryside.  They drove over to the coast to tour the Atlantikwall, an unfinished steel and concrete wall constructed by the Germans during World War II.  Its purpose was to block England from invading German-claimed territory and to protect some of Hitler’s weapons. 

Next stop was Damme, where we had a brief reunion before this group boarded a party boat for the trip back to Bruges.  There was beer-tasting on board, so everybody had a chance to try cherry beer on this day. 

GHENT

Ghent has been an industrial and commercial center throughout its long history.  Located at the confluence of the Scheldt and Leie rivers, it was the seat of the powerful counts of Flanders.  The 'Three Towers of Ghent' are those of St. Bavo's Cathedral, the Belfry, and St. Nicholas Church. Beneath these towers, there are plenty of cobblestone streets, meandering canals, and Flemish architecture. 

Our visit started in Market Square, the place that served as the rallying point whenever trouble or excitement erupted in Ghent.  The statue of Jacob van Arteveld that stands in the square is a tribute to a rebel hero of the 1300s; its base is adorned by the shields of some 52 guilds.  The square is surrounded by interesting buildings, including a small pub that serves over250 different types of beer.  The big building on the right hand corner is the home of the Tanners Guild, built in the 15^th century.

 

From the square, we walked over to the Great Butcher’s Hall, which dates back to the 15th century, when meat halls were indoor market places with centralized sales to monitor the freshness and quality of the meat.  Inside, there are Ghent’s special Ganda Hams hanging from the roof, but today the Hall’s main function is the promotion of local East Flemish products.

 

Nearby is the Old Fish Market, which opened in 1689.  High above the entrance Neptune keeps watch with his golden trident, flanked by figures that symbolize Ghent’s two rivers.

Here is Gravensteen, the Castle of the Counts - a menacing fortress/stronghold of the counts of Flanders.  It seems safe to say that its very appearance did much to install fear and awe in the citizens of Ghent.  Surrounded by the waters of the River Leie, it was built in 1180. If its six-foot-thick walls, battlements and turrets failed to intimidate attackers, the counts could always turn to the well-equipped torture chamber inside.  Today the castles houses a museum of torture devices:  guillotine, spiked iron collars, racks, branding irons, thumb screws, and other delights.

Continuing to walk along the river, we get our first glimpse of the scenic reasons that people love this city:  canals, bridges, flowers, and Flemish architecture.  Many of these buildings now house restaurants, cafes and shops.

The best is yet come – here are two ancient wharfs, the Graslei and the Korenlei.  Together they formed the first trade port in Ghent, back in the 11^th century.  The gabled buildings on the banks of the river were once Guild Houses.  These buildings were once the headquarters of the craftsmen, tradespeople and merchants who formed the city’s commercial core.  They were built between the 1200s and the 1600s, back in the days when the wharves were alive with the bustle of trade.  (Note: many tourist guides describe this as one of the most beautiful cityscapes in Europe – they may be right!)

 

At the far end of the row of guild houses are St. Michael’s Bridge and St. Michael’s Church.  The church’s tower was supposed to be over 450 feet tall, but it was never completed.  The plans were a bit too grand and there wasn’t enough money to finish the job.  

St. Bavo’s Cathedral is a massive cathedral in the city's center.  Its exterior is not very impressive; most of the church was built in the 14th and 15th centuries, but the oldest section dates back to the 12th century.  The cathedral's interior is filled with priceless paintings, sculptures, screens, memorials, and carved tombs.  The showpiece is the 24-panel 'The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb’ painted between 1420-1426 by the van Eyck brothers. 

 

Across the square from the cathedral is the 14th century Belfry and the Cloth Hall over which it stands (and the Tower of St. Nicholas Church in the background).  The Belfry houses a carillon of 54 bells.  The Cloth Hall is a 1425 building that was the gathering place of wool and cloth merchants during the Middle Ages. 

Nearby is the Guild Hall of the Masons.  Atop the façade of this 16^th century building, there are six curious little devils that seem to be dancing.  Maybe they’re just excited about the new McDonald’s down the street.

 

 

We were more excited about the colorful little houses to be found around every corner – and one more chance for Belgian chocolate.

We wrapped up our tour with a stop at a street vendor selling “noses,” or in Flemish, that would be “neuzen.”  This is a traditional Flemish candy called “cuberdon” - it is shaped like a little red nose and flavored with raspberries. 

ANTWERP

Antwerp marked the official beginning of our river cruise.  Our ship, the M/S River Rhapsody (132 passengers and 34 crew) was docked, ready and waiting for us.  Captain Martin Bajer set a high standard for the crew, and the service on this ship was simply outstanding. We enjoyed the international crew; their homelands were from around the world – from Eastern Europe to Southeast Asia and points in between.

The ship itself was excellent, too. The dining room was at the rear of the ship, with a lounge and bar at the front; the sun deck on top provided even better views of the scenery sliding by outside.  Our cabin was comfortable and had a huge window.  Each evening, the sofas turned into beds with chocolates on the pillow; each morning they reverted to the sitting room.  It was nice, but we didn’t spend much time there.  As you'll see in this narrative, the dining room was our favorite spot on board.  

 Before we set sail, there was plenty of time to explore the city of Antwerp.  But first, before we go anywhere, our program directors do a short presentation about what to expect.  This routine is repeated every night, in addition to a printed schedule in the lobby and a copy in our room each evening.  Bunch of old folks … no short term memory.  Anyway, on to Antwerp….

Antwerp’s natural, deep-water harbor made it an important port as far back as the 2nd century B.C.  Today, it is one of the world's largest ports, as well as a major diamond center.   Antwerp is still in many ways a typical old Flemish town and its historic heart is a maze of squares, narrow streets and passageways.  Good thing we had a guide …

The Grote Markt is Antwerp’s central square, flanked by the Renaissance Town Hall, which was built in the mid-1500s.  It shows an interesting combination of Flemish influence (dormers, gables) and Italian Renaissance characteristics (loggia just below the roof, pilasters between the windows, niches).

In the center of the square, in front of the Town Hall, is a huge fountain depicting the story of how Antwerp got its name.  It shows Brabo the giant-killer in the act of throwing the giant's severed hand into the River Scheldt.  The Flemish hand-werpen (throwing of the hand) eventually became Antwerpen, the city's Flemish name.

Around the square and in the surrounding streets, there are many 16th-century guild houses.  Some have very tall facades crowned with scrolled gables and delicate pinnacles; others are less ornate. 

 

Antwerp’s oldest guild was the Butcher’s Guild, and their hall, built in 1470, was massive.  This Guild Hall had a sales hall with 62 benches, where butchers could sell their wares.  The late-Gothic building was built in red brick with white sandstone columns and the characteristic ‘bacon’-style walls (alternating stone and brick).  The hall was built to look like a church, the symbol of wealth in medieval times. 

The Cathedral of Our Lady, a towering Gothic structure in the city center, is the pride of Antwerp.  Its architecture is stunning - there are 7 naves and 125 pillars - it is the largest church in both Belgium and Holland.  Begun in 1352, its construction took almost two centuries.  The tower soars to a height of 403 feet and houses a carillon of 47 chimes. 

We saw a remarkable number of niches containing statues of the Madonna - there are supposed to be over 300 of them.  One might think that Antwerp is an especially religious place, but our guide told us that these were just an early form of tax evasion.  In olden times, people had to pay a tax to have a street lamp, but votive lights were an exception to this rule.  Miraculously, well-lit little shrines appeared all over town.

Antwerp’s Castle, Het Steen, was built on the banks of the River Scheldt to protect the town and control shipping.  The oldest stones of this medieval fortress date from the early 13th century, making it Antwerp's oldest building.  Today it houses the National Maritime Museum. 

We left Antwerp in late afternoon, but before we took off, we attended a presentation on Belgian chocolate.  A local chocolatier told us about different sources of cacao beans, different types of chocolate, different types of fillings, etc.  We’ve forgotten most of what he said, but … we haven’t forgotten the taste of what must be the best chocolate in the world.