Wednesday, September 26, 2012

THE NETHERLANDS


The Netherlands is situated on the coast of the North Sea, bordering Germany to the east and Belgium to the south.  Dutch is the official language, though many people are fluent in English and German.  Major religions are Roman Catholic (34%) and Protestant (25%).  We visited Willemstad, Kinderdijk, and Nijmegen.


WILLEMSTAD

The little fortified town of Willemstad, in the southern part of the Netherlands, is nearly surrounded by water.  William of Orange gave the order in 1583 for construction of a star-shaped fortress with 7 bastions, 2 gates and a regular street layout within.  The town is now known for this excellent example of 16th century fortification architecture.

Our ship docked with a great view of the town.  Here it’s possible to see the embankments that made up the original fortress around the town.  The only entrance to town was by water, but today there’s also a narrow road parallel to the canal.  We walked into town to visit the main points of interest. 



Just inside the wall, there’s a large marina, most of the town’s buildings, and a windmill.  Much of the town’s income derives from the marina, since yacht owners can dock their boats here for much less money than in bigger cities.
 





The windmill, known as d’Orangemolen (or Orange Mill), is a white-washed windmill, dating from 1734.  It was used for grinding wheat to make flour, but now has been restored and transformed into a most unusual residence. 















The Old Town Hall, built in 1587, now houses a museum.  As the only ‘official’ building in the town, it was used for just about everything – court of law, weddings, storage of birth and death records. 







From the Old Town Hall, there is a tree-lined “Wedding Walk” in the median strip of the main street, which leads to a domed church at the other end.    














The Keopelkerk (or Reformed Church) is an octagonal building that was the first church built in the Netherlands for a protestant congregation.  It was completed in 1607.  In the Netherlands, a protestant church can be identified by the cock on top of the steeple (Catholic churches have a cross on top).


 
  

Behind the church, the Prisenhof of Mauritshuis was built in 1623 as a hunting lodge for Prince Maurits of Orange.  It is now the “new” Town Hall and home of the Tourist Information office.  The day of our visit, preparations were underway for a wedding to be held there. 




Throughout town, there are still quite a few canals, remnants of the past.  Today, they’re more decorative than functional. 
















After our ‘official’ tour, while most folks headed back to the ship, we climbed to the top of the town wall and walked around the seven-pointed star.  These folks do a great job of supporting physical activity – in most areas, there were two trails: one for walkers on top of the wall and one for bikers at the base of the wall.  Here is a shot of one of the old pumping stations – the picture was taken from the bike trail, but the walking trail is visible above the building. 




Walking around the embankment, we admired backyard gardens and chatted with other walkers and saw again what we’d seen on the earlier tour (it’s a VERY small town).  But … when we got back around to the windmill and marina area, we sure had a surprise – a herd of sheep grazing, seemingly unaware of the walking trail or the view beyond.

 

After a relaxing (though somewhat damp) morning, we headed back to the ship for lunch, while the Captain set sail for Kinderdijk.



KINDERDIJK

Kinderdijk is a small village known for its windmills, which date from the 1700s.  These were used to drain water from low-lying areas, a function now performed by a pumping station with giant water screws.  The name Kinderdijk, which means “child’s dike,” came from a legend about a baby who washed up here in a cradle after a flood. 



 

Windmills were critical in reclaiming flooded land.  A dike was built around a large area of water; windmills then were used to pump water out.  These newly created pieces of land are called polders – reclaimed land that can be used for farming or other purposes.  Just 150 years ago, there were 10,000 operating windmills across the Netherlands.  Today only 1,000 remain, as most of the heavy work has been taken over by mechanical pumps. 









The 19 windmills at Kinderdijk have been saved from the wrecking ball and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  There are 8 stone-brick windmills built in 1738, 8 thatched windmills built in 1740, 2 stone windmills built in 1760, and one from 1521 restored in 2000.  All are inhabited by families that operate and maintain them.  We toured on foot and by boat.


 

One of the windmills was open for visiting.  A walk through the interior of a working windmill gives some insight into how the millers and their families lived.  It wasn’t an easy life – space was limited, only the bottom floor was heated, and families were often quite large (10-12 children was the norm).  They grew their own food and did a lot of fishing.











Every windmill has two doors.  Because the blades are always facing the wind and the wind direction varies, the blades might be running in front of the door.  To avoid decapitation, every windmill has two doors on opposite sides. 

 

The top floor of the windmill is not fixed – it can be rotated a full 360 degrees, as needed to catch the wind.  Long wooden braces are used to hold the top in place.  The four blades can have a sail stretched over them to capture more wind.









These windmills were used only for pumping water.  Every windmill can have only one purpose – all the power generated from the wind is used to move the water or do the grinding or sawing. 















In spite of intermittent showers and lots of wind, this was one of our favorite stops on the trip!











Later, after we dried off, we enjoyed Dutch Night in the restaurant and listening to Karel, the ship’s onboard musician.  He’s a very talented fellow – plays keyboard and accordion and sings, too.  He even brought his accordion out on the gangplank to play a tune to welcome us back on board.


 




NIJMEGEN

Nijmegen, the oldest city in the Netherlands, is situated on a range of hills near the River Waal.  The Romans built a military camp here in the 1st century BC, and the city celebrated its 2000th birthday in 2005.    The location had strategic value because of the surrounding hills, which gave a good view over the Waal and Rhine valley.

Our ship docked here for a side trip to the Kroller-Muller Museum, which is home to art that was collected in the early 1900s by Helene Kroller-Muller.  She donated her entire collection to the Dutch government on the condition that it build a museum on her estate, which is now a national park. 







Happily, her favorite artist was Vincent van Gogh.  She acquired 91 paintings and nearly 200 works on paper by Van Gogh – the world’s largest collection of his works, except for the Van Gogh family collection. 

 

The museum has works by many other artists – Millet, Picasso, Cezanne, for example.  There’s also a large sculpture garden with works by world famous artists such as Auguste Rodin.  We liked one named “Two Adjacent Pavilions” by Don Graham:  two phone booth structures made of one-way mirrors.  Not sure what he was thinking, but it was fun to stand inside and watch the crazy tourists posing for pictures in the mirror. 

 

After the museum outing, there wasn’t much time for visiting the town of Nimegen.  But … some of our group had high hopes about visiting one of Holland’s famous coffeehouses and Nimegen was the last chance for that experience.  Finding the coffee house wasn’t hard – too bad it was Sunday and the shop was closed.  Maybe next time …













We left Nimegen in time for lunch on board, looking forward to a relaxing afternoon of sailing.  And we did relax, but there was still plenty to do on a Sunday afternoon.  The kitchen crew set up an ice cream station in the lounge – who could resist a hazelnut ice cream sundae?













Later we enjoyed a wheelhouse visit with Captain Martin and First Officer Pieter.  The Captain explained who does what and how various instruments are used to navigate and to communicate with other vessels. 

 







An excellent dinner in the ship’s restaurant was followed by a meeting of the Liars Club.  Our program directors outdid themselves at telling tall tales, only one of which was actually true.  


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