Belgium is
located on the western edge of continental Europe, with about 40 miles of
seacoast on the North Sea. It sits
between France to the south and the Netherlands to the north. The main languages spoken here are Flemish
(57%) and French (32%); the main religious group is Roman Catholic (75%). We visited Bruges, Damme, Ghent, and Antwerp.
BRUGES
The
historic center of Bruges has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
because it is such an outstanding example of a medieval settlement that has maintained
its historic fabric as it has evolved over the centuries. Here the original Gothic structures are part
of the town’s identity – the town hasn’t been restored, it’s been preserved.
We
had 2.5 days to explore the city and its houses of time-worn brick, majestic
public buildings, and canals, before embarking on the river cruise. We had a guided walking tour, a boat tour,
and plenty of time for wandering around.
Grote Markt is the vast Market Square at the
heart of Bruges. Today it is ringed by
banks, shops and restaurants, as well as great old gabled buildings. Most of these colorful buildings were guild
houses – headquarters of a particular group of craftsmen, such as tanners or
butchers. Today they house restaurants
local foods, such as mussels and fries.
In the center of the market square is a statue of two Belgian heroes, butcher
Jan Breydel and weaver Pieter de Coninck.
These two led a 1302 uprising against wealthy merchants and nobles who
dominated the guilds.
The Government Palace is a large Neo-Gothic
building that dates from the 1800s.
Today it houses the administrative offices of West Flanders. The red
brick building next door is the main post office.
The marketplace is dominated by the Belfry (or Belfort), a 13th-century octagonal tower which holds a 47-bell
carillon that rings out over the city every quarter hour and in longer concerts
several times a day in summer months. The Belfry stands atop the Halles
(the Halls) a complex of buildings in which most of the city's commerce was
conducted in centuries past. This
structure was an expression of the power of the guilds.
The Burg is another public square a few steps away from the marketplace. Here
Baldwin of the Iron Arm once built a fortified castle, around which a village
(or 'burg') developed. The original entrance into the Burg was through an
opening in the town hall. Note the
bicycles – they were a hazard everywhere!
The Town
Hall is a beautiful Gothic structure built in the late 1300s, making it the
oldest town hall in Belgium. The statues
on the façade are the Counts of Flanders and Burgundy. Upstairs is the 'Gothic
Room,' full of old town maps and paintings and beautifully restored to its 1400
grandeur.
Also on the Burg is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, a
12th-century church tucked in the corner of the square next to the Town Hall.
It is decorated with gold statues of people important in the early history of
Bruges. Since 1149, this building has
been a repository of a fragment of cloth soaked with the blood of Christ, which
was brought to Bruges during the Second Crusade.
The
co-location of the Town Hall and the Church is not accidental. The Catholic Church is the official state
church of Belgium. The Government funds
the Church (Bishops are civil servants!) and the Church in turn, provides most
of the schools in the country. Other
religions are ‘recognized’ but not funded.
Next to the Basilica are buildings
housing shops and restaurants. Note the Belfry looming overhead – this
square is very near the main market square.
Also, the Belfry is visible from all over town – a good thing, since
narrow winding unnamed streets make it very easy to get lost.
The Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk
(Church of Our Lady) took two centuries (the 13th to the 15th) to build; today
it stands as a memorial to the power and wealth of Bruges in its heyday. Its soaring 400-foot-high spire dominates the
city skyline; it is the 2nd tallest brick tower in the world. Among its many art treasures are the marble Madonna and Child by Michelangelo.
Next to the church is the Gruuthuse
(or Gruut House), formerly the palace of the family who had the monopoly on Gruut, the herbal mixture that was used
in medieval beer prior to the conversion to hops-based beer from recipes
brought from Germany in the 15th century.
The Memling Museum is housed in the old Hospital of St. John, which dates from
the Middle Ages. Here one can view
typical medieval hospital buildings filled with furniture and other objects
illustrating their history. The museum
also houses paintings by the artist Hans Memling.
There’s so much history in Bruges,
it’s hard to take it all in. Every
street in the city center is lined with old, old houses, many with the dates
shown on the front façade. Also visible
are the ends of the iron tie-bars used to stabilize the brick structure; these
tall skinny walls were only one brick in thickness.
Crossing
the bridge over a canal, we went to visit the Begijnhof, one of the
most tranquil spots in Bruges. The
Beguines were religious women, similar to nuns, who accepted vows of chastity
and obedience, but drew the line at poverty.
In the 13th century they founded the begijnofs, enclosed
communities designed to meet their spiritual and material needs. The community included houses, churches,
ancillary buildings and green space.
Today this Begijnhof is
occupied by Benedictine nuns who try to keep the old traditions alive. Little whitewashed houses surrounding a lawn
with beautiful shade trees.
Bruges' last remaining city brewery is De Halve Maan (The
Half Moon), established in 1546. It is a
working family brewery that offers an informative and entertaining look at
Belgian beer-making. According to our guide: "The components of beer are vitally
necessary and contribute to a well-balanced life pattern. Nerves, muscles, vision, and healthy skin are
positively stimulated by drinking beer”.
Their specialty beer is called Brugse Zot,
which refers to the nickname of the townspeople, conferred upon them by
Maximilian of Austria. Of course we had
to check it – nice beer and a great way to wrap up a long day of walking.
Because
of its many canals, Bruges is often called ‘The Venice of the North.’ Bruges lies inland, but it was once a major
harbor because of the many sea-arms created by frequent flooding by the North
Sea. In the Middle-Ages, these waterways
had to be regularly adapted and enlarged to allow large trade ships to reach
the city. As the sea retreated, Antwerp
became the major harbor and Bruges was left with a vast network of rivers and
canals no longer suitable for large trade ships. This canal behind our hotel is quiet in early
morning.
Today the Bruges’ canals offer a wonderful way to see the
city. It’s a very different perspective,
but even from the water, the Belfry is easy to spot.
The boat took us into some other parts of
town, near the old harbor and past
one of the few wooden houses still
standing.
Here
are some scenes from our canal boat
ride, including a shot of the most photographed dog in Bruges (he was snoozing
in an open window on the canal side of the house).
There
are other ways to get around town. Many
visitors favor the horse-drawn buggy ride, while the locals (including this
charming postman) go everywhere on bicycles.
Lest you think we spent all our energies on
historical sight-seeing, now would be a good time to point out that Bruges
offers many different experiences – and we had all sorts of advice about what
to try.
First
there’s lace, an item for which
Bruges is famous the world over. Lace-making
is an art that is passed from one generation to the next, and thus, an art in
danger of disappearing. There are lace
shops all over town, and our guide took us to one to get a firsthand look at
lace artisans and their work.
Then there’s Belgian chocolate, another item said to be better in Bruges than
anywhere else. When it comes to chocolates, there are ordinary candy
bars, the more exotic Godiva or Ghirardelli-style chocolates found in specialty
stores, and then there is Belgian chocolate. Belgian chocolate is considered to be the
gourmet standard to which all other chocolate is compared. What makes Belgian chocolate unique is the
quality of ingredients and an almost fanatical adherence to Old World
manufacturing techniques. Even in today's world of automation and mass
production, most Belgian chocolate is still made by hand in small shops using
original equipment. In our experience, these small chocolate outlets are fine
places to visit – to look, to taste, to buy, and to savor.
Another
local delicacy is the Belgian waffle,
which is commonly sold by sidewalk vendors as a snack or in restaurants as a
dessert. The Belgian waffle is
characterized by the dough, which uses yeast, eggs, and melted butter. The finished product is usually served dusted
with confectioner’s sugar or topped with chocolate, fruit, or whipped cream. Delicious.
And don’t forget the Belgian fries, or frites. The Belgians claim
that this dish was created in Belgium.
They say that the term "French fries" was introduced when
American soldiers arrived in Belgium during World War I, and tasted Belgian fries. They supposedly called them
"French," as it was the official language of the Belgian Army at
that time. In Belgium, fries are sold in
shops called friteries. They
are served with a variety of sauces and eaten either on their own or with other
foods. Traditionally, they are served in a white cardboard cone, and then
wrapped in paper, with a good spoonful of sauce on the top.
Last but not least,
there’s Belgian beer. In Belgium, beer is more than just a frothy
beverage - it’s a culture. With at least 500 different varieties, many Belgian
beers have personalized beer glasses in which only that beer may be served. Belgians
take their beer seriously – they say the shape of each glass enhances the
flavor of the beer for which it is designed. In a serious effort to see if
Belgium deserves its reputation for specialty beers, we tried a few: wheat, blonde, cherry-flavored, dark, light,
strong, even beer made by Trappist monks.
Hard to pick a favorite – more research needed on this topic.
DAMME
The
Village of Damme sits on the Zwin River about 4 miles from Bruges. It once was a thriving town, serving as the
customs office and outer port of Bruges.
Its heyday lasted about 200 years – until the river silted up and the
party was over. Nothing much has changed
since then, and today Damme promises a glimpse of a medieval Flemish town.
There’s a canal between Bruges and Damme,
with walking/biking paths on either side.
So … what better way to see the countryside than on a bicycle? Fran, Jo and Carol rented bikes from a shop
near the Belfry, checked the map, and somehow managed to get out of town
without getting run over or (worse) running over somebody else.
First stop was the old Cross City Gate (Kruispoort)
of Bruges. There has been a gate at this
location since the year 1297; the present version is dated from the beginning
of the 15th century. It leads to a bridge which crosses the ‘big
moat’ canal that surrounds the old city center.
The path along the canal around
Bruges was a lovely ride. The path is on
top of the old ramparts, so there’s a nice view into town – at a safe distance
from cars, pedestrians, and other road hazards.
Along this route there are four windmills - what a great place for riding a bike.
Once we reached the turn-off to Damme, we
crossed the big moat and pedaled along the smaller Bruges-Damme canal. One last look back at the city, and then the
view was a bit different – a flat and straight line through the countryside.
As we neared the town of Damme, we
came upon the Schellemill across the canal.
It was erected in 1267, the same year in which Damme was founded. Half of the mill’s revenues had to be paid to
the Count of Flanders, who originally owned the land on which the mill stands.
The central point of Damme is the Grote Markt, which is dominated by the Town Hall (or Stadhuis). This
Gothic-style building was erected in 1468, on the site of the original town
hall built in 1242. It has statues of
Flemish counts and countesses decorating its facade.
Nearby is St. John’s Hospital, founded in 1249. The hospital has been a
home for the elderly since the 19th century.
Part of it serves as a museum.
The Church of Our Lady stands at the far end of Damme’s main street. Construction of this church began in 1225 and today its tower reigns over the town and surrounding countryside.
Beyond the church, there’s yet another canal (surprise!), with an inviting
path alongside. Ah, if we only had more
time…
Midday arrived and we were hungry from all
our riding and walking around town.
Restaurant prices were quite high, but we found a cozy little pub with
good food and reasonable prices. Would
you believe that beer was cheaper
than bottled water?
Time to head back to Bruges – we
gathered our bikes and decided to ride home on the ‘other’ side of the
canal. Here Jo and Carol are crossing
the bridge, which provided a great
view of our return route – you can see all the way down the canal, with the
Bruges Cathedral steeple standing tall at the end.
Somehow
the return trip seemed longer (and all uphill), and the scenery was a little
different on this side. Here we were
riding just below the canal, with more shade trees and with nice views of the
farmlands created from flooded lowlands and maintained by dikes and windmills. We also got a look at some Belgian draft
horses – nothing dainty about this fellow.
While we were off pedaling, Margaret,
Dennis and Vicky went on an excursion to see more of the Flanders
countryside. They drove over to the
coast to tour the Atlantikwall, an unfinished steel and concrete wall
constructed by the Germans during World War II.
Its purpose was to block England from invading German-claimed territory
and to protect some of Hitler’s weapons.
Next stop was Damme, where we had a brief
reunion before this group boarded a party boat for the trip back to
Bruges. There was beer-tasting on board,
so everybody had a chance to try cherry beer on this day.
GHENT
Ghent
has been an industrial and commercial center throughout its long history. Located at the confluence of the Scheldt and
Leie rivers, it was the seat of the powerful counts of Flanders. The 'Three Towers of Ghent' are those of St.
Bavo's Cathedral, the Belfry, and St. Nicholas Church. Beneath these towers,
there are plenty of cobblestone streets, meandering canals, and Flemish
architecture.
Our visit started in Market Square, the place that served as the rallying point whenever
trouble or excitement erupted in Ghent.
The statue of Jacob van Arteveld
that stands in the square is a tribute to a rebel hero of the 1300s; its base
is adorned by the shields of some 52 guilds.
The square is surrounded by interesting buildings, including a small pub
that serves over250 different types of beer.
The big building on the right hand corner is the home of the Tanners
Guild, built in the 15th century.
From the square, we walked over to
the Great Butcher’s Hall, which dates
back to the 15th century, when meat halls were indoor market places with
centralized sales to monitor the freshness and quality of the meat. Inside, there are Ghent’s special Ganda Hams hanging from the roof, but
today the Hall’s main function is the promotion of local East Flemish products.
Nearby is the Old Fish Market, which opened in 1689. High above the entrance Neptune keeps watch
with his golden trident, flanked by figures that symbolize Ghent’s two rivers.
Here is Gravensteen,
the Castle of the Counts - a
menacing fortress/stronghold of the counts of Flanders. It seems safe to say that its very appearance
did much to install fear and awe in the citizens of Ghent. Surrounded by the waters of the River Leie,
it was built in 1180. If its six-foot-thick walls, battlements and turrets
failed to intimidate attackers, the counts could always turn to the
well-equipped torture chamber inside. Today
the castles houses a museum of torture devices:
guillotine, spiked iron collars, racks, branding irons, thumb screws,
and other delights.
Continuing to walk along the river, we get
our first glimpse of the scenic reasons that people love this city: canals, bridges, flowers, and Flemish
architecture. Many of these buildings
now house restaurants, cafes and shops.
The best is yet come – here are two
ancient wharfs, the Graslei and the Korenlei. Together they formed the first trade port in
Ghent, back in the 11th century.
The gabled buildings on the banks of the river were once Guild Houses. These buildings were once the headquarters of
the craftsmen, tradespeople and merchants who formed the city’s commercial
core. They were built between the 1200s
and the 1600s, back in the days when the wharves were alive with the bustle of
trade. (Note: many tourist guides
describe this as one of the most beautiful cityscapes in Europe – they may be
right!)
At the far end of the row of guild houses
are St. Michael’s Bridge and St. Michael’s Church. The church’s tower was supposed to be over
450 feet tall, but it was never completed.
The plans were a bit too grand and there wasn’t enough money to finish
the job.
St. Bavo’s
Cathedral is
a massive cathedral in the city's center.
Its exterior is not very impressive; most of the church was built in the
14th and 15th centuries, but the oldest section dates back to the 12th
century. The cathedral's interior is
filled with priceless paintings, sculptures, screens, memorials, and carved
tombs. The showpiece is the 24-panel
'The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb’ painted between 1420-1426 by the van Eyck
brothers.
Across the square from the cathedral is the
14th century Belfry and the Cloth Hall over which it stands (and
the Tower of St. Nicholas Church in the background). The Belfry houses a carillon of 54
bells. The Cloth Hall is a 1425 building
that was the gathering place of wool and cloth merchants during the Middle
Ages.
Nearby is the Guild Hall of the Masons.
Atop the façade of this 16th century building, there are six
curious little devils that seem to be dancing.
Maybe they’re just excited about the new McDonald’s down the street.
We were more excited about the
colorful little houses to be found around every corner – and one more chance
for Belgian chocolate.
We wrapped up our tour with a stop at a street
vendor selling “noses,” or in Flemish, that would be “neuzen.” This is a
traditional Flemish candy called “cuberdon” - it is shaped like a
little red nose and flavored with raspberries.
ANTWERP
Antwerp
marked the official beginning of our river cruise. Our ship, the M/S River Rhapsody (132
passengers and 34 crew) was docked, ready and waiting for us. Captain Martin Bajer set a high standard for the crew,
and the service on this ship was simply outstanding. We enjoyed the
international crew; their homelands were from around the world – from Eastern
Europe to Southeast Asia and points in between.
The ship itself was excellent, too.
The dining room was at the rear of the ship, with a lounge and bar at the
front; the sun deck on top provided even better views of the scenery sliding by
outside. Our cabin was comfortable and had
a huge window. Each evening, the sofas
turned into beds with chocolates on the pillow; each morning they reverted to
the sitting room. It was nice, but we
didn’t spend much time there. As you'll see in this narrative, the dining room was our favorite spot on board.
Before we set sail, there was plenty
of time to explore the city of Antwerp. But
first, before we go anywhere, our program directors do a short presentation
about what to expect. This routine is
repeated every night, in addition to a printed schedule in the lobby and a copy
in our room each evening. Bunch of old
folks … no short term memory. Anyway, on
to Antwerp….
Antwerp’s
natural, deep-water harbor made it an important port as far back as the 2nd
century B.C. Today, it is one of the
world's largest ports, as well as a major diamond center. Antwerp is still in many ways a typical old
Flemish town and its historic heart is a maze of squares, narrow streets and
passageways. Good thing we had a guide …
The Grote
Markt is Antwerp’s central square, flanked by the Renaissance Town Hall, which was built in the
mid-1500s. It shows an interesting combination
of Flemish influence (dormers, gables) and Italian Renaissance characteristics
(loggia just below the roof, pilasters between the windows, niches).
In the center of the square, in front of
the Town Hall, is a huge fountain depicting
the story of how Antwerp got its name.
It shows Brabo the giant-killer in the act of throwing the giant's
severed hand into the River Scheldt. The
Flemish hand-werpen (throwing of the
hand) eventually became Antwerpen, the city's Flemish name.
Around the square and in the surrounding
streets, there are many 16th-century guild
houses. Some have very tall facades crowned
with scrolled gables and delicate pinnacles; others are less ornate.
Antwerp’s oldest guild was the Butcher’s
Guild, and their hall, built in 1470, was massive. This Guild Hall had a sales hall with 62
benches, where butchers could sell their wares. The late-Gothic building was built in red
brick with white sandstone columns and the characteristic ‘bacon’-style walls (alternating
stone and brick). The hall was built to
look like a church, the symbol of wealth in medieval times.
The
Cathedral of Our Lady, a towering Gothic structure in the city center, is
the pride of Antwerp. Its architecture
is stunning - there are 7 naves and 125 pillars - it is the largest church in
both Belgium and Holland. Begun in 1352,
its construction took almost two centuries.
The tower soars to a height of 403 feet and houses a carillon of 47
chimes.
We saw a remarkable number of
niches containing statues of the Madonna
- there are supposed to be over 300 of them.
One might think that Antwerp is an especially religious place, but our
guide told us that these were just an early form of tax evasion. In olden times, people had to pay a tax to
have a street lamp, but votive lights were an exception to this rule. Miraculously, well-lit little shrines
appeared all over town.
Antwerp’s Castle, Het Steen, was built on
the banks of the River Scheldt to protect the town and control shipping. The oldest stones of this medieval fortress date
from the early 13th century, making it Antwerp's oldest building. Today it houses the National Maritime Museum.
We left Antwerp in late afternoon, but
before we took off, we attended a presentation on Belgian chocolate. A local chocolatier told us about different
sources of cacao beans, different types of chocolate, different types of
fillings, etc. We’ve forgotten most of
what he said, but … we haven’t forgotten the taste of what must be the best
chocolate in the world.
